Turkey Travel Diary, Day 4: Ancient cities overrun by cats
I have not been on this schedule since the sixth grade. Alarm at 0600, breakfast at 0630, leave suitcase outside door at 0700, get in the bus at 0800. I’d skip breakfast but there’s no coffee pot in the hotel room. Or potable water. When you visit Turkey, remember that water is not free, even in restaurants.
Ephesus the ancient Greek, then Roman, then Byzantine, then Seljuk, then Ottoman city in Anatolia (Asia Minor) has two reigning tourist attractions, both female divinities.
The more recent one is the Virgin Mary, who is believed to have lived in this nondescript house on a hill. There are no records to support this claim: the BVM is supposed to have traveled to Asia Minor with the apostle John after Jesus’s death, but there was no forwarding address. This house reportedly matches the description provided by a German nun, who saw it in a vision. It is now a pilgrimage destination.
I suspect that Ephesus was the best candidate for the BVM’s address because for centuries before Christianity the city had been associated with another, much older female divinity—the Greek goddess Artemis who was merged with the Anatolian goddess Kybele to become the Lady of Ephesus, who is portrayed as a woman with many, many breasts (though some think they might be testicles).
This is all that remains of the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World: pieces of stone piled into a column in Selcuk. The original temple was burned down by one Herostratus, who wanted to be remembered for something, anything. This makes him the first fame whore on record. “Why didn’t Artemis protect her temple?” people asked. Tradition says the goddess of fertility was busy that day, helping a woman who was in labor. The child grew up to become Alexander the Great. The temple was rebuilt, the size of a football field. Later it was destroyed by a Christian mob.
The ruins of Ephesus give you some idea of its grandeur and sophistication. Its main avenue is lined with the remains of shops, you can see the pipes in the ground for the indoor plumbing, and there are holes in the street where large torches were planted at night.
The ancient city is still occupied, just not by people.
Cats make themselves at home in the great archaeological sites. These ones are better-groomed and behaved than the ones at the Colosseum in Rome.
I knew the Romans had public baths, but communal toilets? Can taking a dump really be a social activity? Outside of politics of course.
Scholars think this is an ad for a brothel. There’s a foot to tell patrons where to go, a woman and a heart indicating what they could get, and a bill (credit card?) reminding them that it wasn’t free.
This cat is going there.
(Insert bad joke about someone losing their head.)
The facade of the Library of Celsus. They read scrolls at the time, which made it easier to beat bad writers to death.
The 25,000-seat theatre built on the side of the mountain. “What’s on tonight?” “Oedipus Rex.” “Sophocles again? I’d rather gouge my eyes out.” Rimshot.
Answers to questions you might be asking, unless you wandered onto this site purely by accident >>>
March 7th, 2013 at 11:09
So many cats! How are they fed :( But they look so clean and healthy hehe…
I love the structures (or de-structures for that matter). You’d know that this place had been through a LOT and holds so many stories by just looking at those rocks.
Hahahaha on the Sophocles reference. Now I really miss theater!
March 7th, 2013 at 14:50
The facade of the Library of Celsus. — parang yan ung sa Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade????? yan ba????????
March 7th, 2013 at 21:54
This is craaazy!
Do you have pictures inside the supposedly “home” of the Virgin Mary? and what did you feel jz seeing these ancient places?
gawd! i hope i could visit turkey din.
March 7th, 2013 at 23:53
Great travelogue, thanks for sharing. Turkey is magical, especially Ephesus. I got to visit in the late 1990’s and it was unforgettable. Hope you get to see the Fairy Chimneys in Cappadocia.
March 8th, 2013 at 00:57
question uli: did the travel agent arrange for your visa to turkey?
March 8th, 2013 at 14:21
Kamangha-mangha! Maraming salamat sa pagbabahagi. Pakiramdam nga nami’y nakarating din kami doon.
March 8th, 2013 at 14:27
cheezmiss: Hinde, sa Petra yung Indiana Jones. Jordan.
March 8th, 2013 at 14:28
nikko17: Felt small and ignorant. Have to learn ancient Greek.
March 8th, 2013 at 14:30
humanum777: According to the locals, a lot has changed in Turkey in the last decade. May be time for another visit. (In the 90s did you have to pay for drinking water?)
March 8th, 2013 at 22:17
ahhh ok, thanks!
March 8th, 2013 at 22:42
Rome, Russia, now Turkey. There’s a good story waiting to be told – cats guarding ancient sites.
March 9th, 2013 at 01:28
oriames: You can apply for the visa yourself or through a travel agent. Requirements:
EMBASSY OF THE REPUBLIC OF TURKEY
2268 Paraiso Street, Dasmariñas Village, Makati City
Telephone No.: +632 843 9705/ 843 9707
Fax No.: +632 843 9702
Website: http://www.mfa.gov.tr
Email Address: turkemb.manila@mfa.gov.tr
TOURIST/BUSINESS VISA REQUIREMENTS (6II,1a)
1. Duly completed Application Form with (1) Passport size picture;
2. Original Passport – valid for 6 months prior to departure and photocopy of the first 2 pages of the passport (Kindly attach old passport)
3. Certificate of Employment including applicant/s position, working record and monthly/annual income;
4. Individual Latest Income Tax Return
5. Company Latest Income Tax Return if travel is company’s business;
6. FOR BUSINESSMAN/WOMAN – Company Business Registration such as SEC and DTI
7. Original Bank Deposit Certificate addressed to the Embassy and Passbook;
8. If Invited by:
8.1. Government or Private Sector and International Companies or Institutions holding office in Turkey – Original Invitation Letter addressed to the Embassy
8.2. Turkish National – Original Invitation Letter should be notarized in Turkey, Affidavit of support and pertinent credentials of the invitee together with the Turkish I.D’s and other supporting documents.
9. Confirmed Hotel Accommodation Booking
10. Roundtrip Electronic/Airline Ticket
IMPORTANT:
• ALL INVITATION LETTERS WILL BE SUBMITTED BY THE APPLICANT AND SHOULD BE FAXED TO THE EMBASSY PRIOR TO APPLICATION (FAX NO.: +632 843 9702).
• INCOMPLETE DOCUMENTS WILL NOT BE ACCEPTED.
• ORIGINALS & PHOTOCOPIES OF THE SAME MUST BE SUBMITTED TO THE EMBASSY
VISA FEE
Single Entry (6/II/1a) Php 2,500.00
Multiple Entry (6/II/1b) Php 8,100.00
*Payments shall be made upon application
*Please prepare the exact amount
*Filling of Application:
Monday to Friday EXCEPT Wednesdays from 9:30 am to 12:00nn
*Processing time is within 10 (ten) workings days from the receipt of application
March 12th, 2013 at 00:53
if it’s not much trouble, could you recommend a travel agency who can do the visa processing?
March 12th, 2013 at 01:19
oriames: Meteor Philippines will do it if you book the trip through them. meteorphils@gmail.com, tell them you were referred by this site.