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We have very fond memories of the fortnight we spent in Eastern Europe many years ago: the magnificent architecture, museums, concerts and operas at very affordable prices, the cheap liquor and the heavy all-meat meals (meat fried, breaded, stuffed with cheese and served with an egg on top) we consumed while wearing all the clothes we had brought because it was still freezing in late March. Those were good times.

How we could’ve remained ignorant of the existence of Balkan on Perea Street near Greenbelt 1, Makati, we have no idea, but we rectified that by going there twice last week.

Balkan serves Yugoslavian home cooking in a cozy, unpretentious setting. Meaning it’s like having dinner in a real house (for living in, not getting photographed in).

We recommend the cevapcici—spicy Serbian sausages served with rice, and the sarma—pickled cabbage rolls stuffed with beef, rice and spices. The house specialty is jagnjetina—baked lamb, which is as fall-off-the-bone tender as the menu promises, but rather bland for the Filipino palate. We kept imagining it as caldereta or adobo, or anything with a thick sauce.

Prices range from Php280 for a platter of sausages with rice to Php700 for the baked lamb. They serve San Miguel beers, Php50-70, and their wines start at Php370 the bottle. The place is open daily from 11am to 1am.

Yes, it is a doorstop.

On our next visit we will try the Balkanski kebab—”grilled chicken breast embraced by smoked bacon”, dzigerica (pork liver steak), and palacinke (Nutella crepes). And crack open Rebecca West’s classic travel journal and Balkan history, Black Lamb and Grey Falcon.

We have a suggestion for the management: Could you install a TV with cable so we can watch Djokovic’s matches with the full atmospherics? (What happens when we boo?)

Balkan is on the ground floor of Maripola Building, 109 Perea St., Legaspi Village, Makati, telephone (02)846.0744 or 0917.547.4188 (Look for Marko).