Riffs on Whiffs
We’re not into perfume; strong scents give us a headache. If you want to make us leave a room immediately, send in a guy doused in cologne. We don’t care how gorgeous he is or whether his perfume was distilled by Carthaginian monks who had taken a vow of silence and worked only by the light of a waxing gibbous moon, we’re outta there. We’ll put up with the stench of a kitty litter box because we have to, but prolonged exposure to Chanel No. 5 makes our head start pounding.
That said, we really enjoyed Perfumes, the A-Z Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.
Luca Turin is a biophysicist who studies the science of smell. We learned about him from TED. This book is a field guide to nearly 2,000 perfumes in the market, written in a style that combines erudition and wiseassery.
It’s an excellent shopping companion. A couple of years ago we field-tested this book by going to designer boutiques, sniffed their perfumes, and then reading the corresponding reviews. Aloud.
For instance, at Hermes we asked for a whiff of Osmanthe Yunnan, which gets a 5-star rating from Turin and Sanchez. Then we read, “When Jean-Claude Ellena, now in-house perfumer at a little saddler’s outfit called Hermes first did the soapy suede-and-apricots scent of the osmanthus flower for The Different Company’s Osmanthus, it was like one of those deceptively simple, pretty Paul McCartney melodies that seem so obvious once heard, you suspect he finds them lying fully formed in the street…” If the sales staff found us strange they hid it well; then again we are strange. We also went to Marc Jacobs and clucked over the perfume that only merited 3 stars.
Among the perfumes that get a 5-star rating are Angel, Aromatics Elixir, Badgley Mischka, Cool Water, Cuir de Russie, Dior Homme, Dune, Eau Sauvage, Knowing, Kouros, Secretions Magnifiques and Ubar.
January 6th, 2012 at 12:25
Clint Eastwood’s favorite scent is said to be “Dirt” by Demeter Fragrance Library. Gives new meaning to the term “Dirty Old Man” and being called “amoy lupa” may not be necessarily bad at all. :P
Here’s their eclectic collection:
http://www.demeterfragrance.com/58083/All-Classic-Scents.html?npp=144
January 6th, 2012 at 12:39
I like Eau Savage, Orange Vert, Caleche.
Oooh! Secretions Magnifiques, pangalan pa lang winner na!
January 6th, 2012 at 21:19
Luca Turin! I used to read his blog for perfume reviews, especially for his takes on the terrible ones. I remember when Tania Sanchez ran a beauty blog of her own, too, until she and Luca started communicating with each other online and ended up working on this book together.
And, apparently, they’ve been inseperable ever since:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2008/sep/10/beauty
January 7th, 2012 at 12:29
Check out the logo of Secretions Magnifiques.
http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2007/01/secretions_magnifiques_by_etat.html
January 7th, 2012 at 13:14
Wow, I’m offended! Not.
January 7th, 2012 at 13:22
So I guess Lady Gaga creating a perfume that’s supposed to smell of blood and semen is not that shocking anymore. It’s been done before.